A Touch of the Nordic: Atlas Wellington's Fresh Menu

A few months ago an Agatha-Christie-esque establishment popped up on the corner of Customhouse Quay, oozing sophistication. With its mysterious gauzy curtains and heavy use of brass, I was immediately deeply intrigued. It’s called Atlas.

Atlas restaurant is a nordic-inspired contemporary dining restaurant; it prides itself on high quality cuisine created by renowned Executive Chef James Pask and his team, using the finest produce available (much of it locally sourced). Additionally, for wine fans,  Sommelier Yong Yan has developed, allegedly, the capital’s most expansive wine list featuring old world, new world, organic and local wines. Atlas offers something different from many existing Capital establishments; it feels like a place to get lost and pretend to be someone else, imagining you’re in some sophisticated Scandi-Noir drama, even if just for an evening.

Like a chic European man walking down Lambton Quay, Atlas caught my attention without warning. As any good millennial is wont to do, I made a dive for the menu online and a quick glance told me that this was the place to grant all my bougie-greedy-girl dreams; seasonal oysters; whipped beef fat and aged Parmesan; crayfish. So, excited, I suggested having my work leaving dinner there. I did not hold my breath, expecting to be told to get back in my Tank Salad box. What audacity was this? However, kindly (and, probably for their pocketbook, regretfully), my former employers obliged. (Fun fact: I used to work with James while I was a waitress as a student at another Wellington establishment.)

As those of you who follow me on my Instagram stories may know, it was a culinary night to remember. I am a very lucky lady, and did not think I’d be repeating the experience any time soon! But before I could even say ‘Lamb belly tatare’ I was fortunate enough to find myself invited back to Atlas for a media preview. The purpose was to celebrate Atlas’s launch of its ‘one-off’ monthly guest chef programme, starting with Atlas x Giulio Sturla x Black Estate Wine. How could I say no?

The idea for the event is to give diners a chance to taste something different in a familiar setting. Chef Pask came up with the idea of having a monthly guest chef and vineyard at Atlas restaurant – which is a new concept in the Wellington hospitality scene and even in New Zealand. Consequentially, Atlas  is the first and only restaurant in the Capital to run a regular ‘one-off’ monthly guest chef programme.

The process? First, Pask identifies a respected chef from anywhere in New Zealand that aligns with the values of Atlas – using locally sourced produce and creating high quality cuisine. Second, wherever that chef comes from, Atlas sources a local winery. 

For those of you who may not be aware, Giulio Strula was head chef of Roots, an institution in Canterbury that unfortunately had to shut its doors a few months ago. Strula is multi award-winning, and Pask saw it as an opportunity for kiwis to continue to experience his amazing creations in a completely different setting. I love the idea of people in the hospitality highlighting and supporting one another, so this particularly appealed to my sense of community - a theme The Residents blog has long been about.

We started with a few appetisers; cucumber, elder-flower, elder-flower capers and dill (a scandi-style delicacy reminding me of how I imagine food at Noma might taste) and smoked eel, radish and beetroot to start. Everything was light, devastatingly fresh and reminded me of the food Matt and I ate in Copenhagen last year on our big trip away.

Next, some Paua schnitzel with tangy wild green sauce and tart pickled seaweed. As you can see from the images snapped below, this was particularly stunning to regard visually, as well as delicious to eat. We paired this with Black Estate Damsteep Riesling 2018 which was very appealing with aromas of lime, orange blossom, mandarin and wild honey - a good match (the Damsteep Vineyard is located in the north east of Waipara Valley at the foot of the Omihi Saddle in North Canterbury).

We moved on to our next course: the most heavenly local bread with whipped beef fat and aged Parmesan. Call me a heathen but I could eat this all-blooming-day-long. I adore bread and butter - so if you can somehow enhance it in a culinary fashion beyond its simplest form, I am yours. I also tried a light and buttery clam chowder - Cloudy Bay clams, Meyer Lemon, tangelo and organic olive oil - which danced over the palette and was beautifully balanced.

We then experienced something quite special - a Chatham crayfish, enclosed in a tulip with white asparagus and shellfish sauce. The tulip was edible and the crayfish rich and juicy. While I enjoyed both, my jaw craved something crunchy to contrast the soft flesh. However, I was entirely won over by the white asparagus, which was like a beautiful Edouard Manet painting brought to life. I would devote my life to that asparagus. They were probably the most gorgeous thing I’ve seen - or eaten - all year; sweet, buttery and a hint of bitter, adorned with edible flowers.

Personally, I am a fan of raw meat (sorry) so I really enjoyed the lamb belly tatare, french sorrel and smoked yolk with sourdough. It was moist, tender and intoxicating. Although a little leaner than beef, which is traditionally used in tatare, I thought it worked well. We then also ate the Merino saddle lamb, shittake and black garlic. Perhaps it was the wine I’d enjoyed by this point, but this was probably the least memorable dish for me. It was pleasant but not something I would necessarily return for, unlike some of the other dishes. For the less adventurous diner however, it is a good staple from the menu.

Finally, we finished the night with coconut, sake and kawakawa and then rhubarb, plum, sorrel and goats milk. We were also treated to some petite fours. Atlas had certainly knocked it out of the park already, but the deserts were a home run. None of the diners I was with that night had anything except supreme praise for the selection of interesting and well-balanced dolce. This is particularly impressive when you take into account how hard it is to innovate with success in deserts and deviate without losing your audience. Everything was different, sumptuous and surprising.

We left Atlas that night full and happy after an incredible meal. Although dining at Atlas is a considered purchase if you want to go all out like we did, it is one well worth investing in for date nights, celebrations and any other excuse you might find. The guest chef appearances will be a monthly ongoing thing with different chefs and vineyards. Giulio Sturla x Black Estate Wine was the perfect match to kick things off.

One other cool things: Atlas diners also can experience an interactive and exciting  ‘chefs table’ experience; which can seat up to 8 diners at a time in a private booth looking on to the kitchen. This is about offering guests a rare experience – they get to watch the chefs in action as they prepare, plate and present the course menu directly; it’s all in vogue overseas and guests like to watch and learn all about what they are eating. While I didn’t experience this, it sounds fabulous.

It seems like I might have an excuse to return to Atlas for a third time, very, very soon…

This experience was kindly gifted by Atlas Wellington for review purposes.

The Classics: My 26 Go-To Eateries In Wellington

Little defines Wellingtonians as much as our obsession with food. Hot, spicy and delicious, there’s so much to choose from.

Food is a highly personal matter - and not everywhere will be your jam. One year you may be obsessed with burgers and the next, it could be all about seafood. Some years you may be eating lobster and others going out somewhere nice means McDonald’s. Based on where you work, what your age is and how much money you have, your preferences will change over time. One thing is true however: we all need to eat.

For me, food has always been about the places I have good memories eating with family and friends. I’m not super into dining deals as I’d rather go somewhere I like and know. Often, I have visited these restaurants and cafes over years, and have personal favourites on the menu I could recite from memory. As they say, trends come and go but good classics remain!

I love eating around and about Wellington, and find myself being asked for tips over and over. So if you’ve ever wanted to know where to buy spicy asian noodles, or what is the pizza place I’ll sell my soul to, here it is! Apologies if there is some repetition here - good things tend to stick around. Disclaimer - these are MY own favourites. I don’t seek to cater to the masses so if you don’t like all my choices, you can jog on!

My All Time Classics

1. Monsoon Poon - I love the firecracker chicken and the great atmosphere here. Even David Beckham approves!

2. Little Penang - Unlicensed but always clean and balanced Malaysian. Just off Cuba Street.

3. Floriditas - A classic for cake, coffee or amazing seasonal brunch. Elegant European interior.

4. Loretta - Such a great menu that changes often with fabulous basics. I love and want to eat everything on this menu.

5. Tank - Tank are a chain who do great salads. The Chicken and Goji Berry Salad is my never-changing favourite. This is a frequent lunchtime pick.

6. Gelissimo - Really innovative and special gelato and some excellent sandwiches. Try out the hot chocolate.

7. Wellington Chocolate Factory - Speaking of Hot Chocolate, these guys do the best. I love their yum salted caramel variety. Their bean to bar chocolate is the stuff of legend in Wellington.

8. Fortune Favours - This is a great beer and wine bar with tasty platters, and a neat atmosphere. It’s the only one of the Wellington Hospitality Group bars which I truly dig, largely thanks to Shannon, its proprietor.

9. Pizza Pomodoro - The most authentic Italian Pizza in my opinion. Get a takeaway and a slab of Fortune Favours beer to take home!

10. Superfino Jervois Quay - This is my new favourite coffee haunt, situated perfectly between uptown and downtown. I like that it is quiet and always makes me feel a bit incognito.

11. La Cloche - I adore French cuisine so La Cloche is up there for me. I just think these guys have a great menu and very authentic offering food wise. I prefer savoury to sweet - so line me up to a Croque Monsieur…eh…monsieur.

12. Noble Rot - This is such a great spot if you have a bit of cash to splash. I always feel very special coming in here and again, excellent platters. What these guys don’t know about wine isn’t worth knowing.

13. Ortega Fish Shack - For a treat, head to the Fish Shack. Fine dining at its best, with a sea-shanty feel. It’s well worth the spend.

14. Capitol - A great place to go for that classic yet casual vibe with an outstanding menu. I think these guys really nail the seasonal thing and you leave feeling light, never overstuffed.

15. Burger Liquor - An all American feel with tangy pickle ridden burgers and soft, brioche buns.

16. Sweet Mother’s Kitchen - The original Tex-Mex Wellington dining spot. I love their burritos and tacos. So so good and always reliable.

17. Cicio Cacio - Newtown delivers the best Italian in Wellington. Your authentic trattoria experience.

18. LBQ - I love the amazing - you guessed it - platters here and that the beer is fabulous. A great nook to meet up with friends.

19. The Greek Food Truck - These guys to seriously great Gyros that is almost as good as the real deal in the motherland.

20. Apache - Vietnamese cuisine that is just to die for!

21. Nam D - Also delicious Vietnamese - this time ‘on-the-go-’ street food.

22. Tommy Millions Pizza - New York style pizza done to perfection.

23. Egmont Street Eatery - Really cute atmosphere and a handsome menu with fusion food and a great burger!

24. Boulcott Street Bistro - For the odd special end of year occasion, this old dame still lives up to her reputation.

25. Mr Go’s - This is such a great spot with truly delicious food and they can cater for most allergies and sensitivity.

26. Burger Fuel - I LOVE Burgerfuel so much - it was truly one of the things I craved while travelling in Europe last year.

And because 26 spots isn’t enough, here are a few extra favourites:

The awesome sushi shop O’Sushi at Moore Wilson’s, Moore Wilson’s generally (even though it is not technically an Eatery), Ekor Bookshop (the BEST vibe - coffee in an independent book shop), PreFab (reliable and love their independent foodie line and Oli bread), Husk, Golding’s and so many more!

What are your favourite eateries?